Understanding puer tea starts with exploring the distinctions within this class of tea, notably between cooked (shou) and raw (sheng) puer. These categories are fundamentally different in terms of processing and flavor profile. The term "cooked" comes from the word *shou*, which translates to "cooked" as opposed to "raw." This method of tea processing was developed in 1973 and is often referred to as "wet piling" or "pile fermentation" (*wo dui*).

The wet piling process was pioneered through a collaboration between the Kunming and Menghai tea factories. Kunming Tea Factory, established in 1938 and designated as Factory Number One, played a significant role in this development. Menghai Tea Factory, founded in 1940 and known for using the Da Yi trademark since 2004, is Factory Number Two. The Xia Guan Tea Factory, established later, is Factory Number Three.

In addition to these large-scale producers, there are numerous independent tea producers, often called boutique tea brands. One of my longest-standing relationships is with Chen Yuan Hao, the boutique tea factory that introduced me to puer tea and greatly influenced my understanding of it. This connection, combined with their presence in Tainan, where I lived, is one reason why we feature many of their teas. These boutique offerings are known for their exceptional quality. The other puer teas we sell, often in brick form, come from the well-established tea factories.

**The Pile Cooking Process**

The pile cooking process begins after the tea leaves are picked and processed into what is often called "rough tea." The sun-dried leaves remain loose and ready for further processing. The next step involves creating large piles of tea in a controlled, humid environment. Water is added to moisten the leaves, promoting fermentation and encouraging microbial activity. The microorganisms naturally present in the tea start breaking down the cellular structure of the leaves.

This fermenting and oxidizing process typically lasts for several weeks to months, during which the temperature of the piles rises, much like in a compost pile. This heat leads to chemical changes that darken the leaves and contribute to their characteristic earthy aroma and flavor. The piles are turned regularly to aerate the leaves, ensuring even fermentation and preventing excessive heat buildup. If this step is not performed well, undesirable flavors can develop.

Once the desired level of fermentation is reached, the tea is dried and either pressed into cakes or left loose. Although the piling process accelerates aging, cooked puer may still require additional time to develop more complex flavors. The result is a tea that is typically smooth, mellow, and earthy, with a deep, rich color.