Li Shan: Pear Mountain and the Magic of Oolong Tea
Li Shan, also known as Pear Mountain, is a truly magical place, both for its tea and its rich history. Today, I am cupping two Li Shan Oolongs side-by-side. First, I measured 5 grams of each tea. I brewed them in the cupping sets for 3 minutes each with the same temperature water. I’m excited to share the experience because these teas are simply exceptional.
Li Shan translates to "Pear Mountain," and it is not only an interesting area for tea cultivation but also for its history. The indigenous peoples of the Li Shan area, primarily from the Atayal tribe, are known for their unique culture, which includes intricate facial tattooing (no longer in practice) and skilled weaving. Traditionally, they were hunters and gatherers who also practiced slash-and-burn agriculture in this rugged, mountainous terrain. They were fierce warriors, historically practicing headhunting as a way to honor their ancestors and bring fortune to the community. Fortunately, headhunting has also gone out of fashion. The Atayal tribe’s deep knowledge of the mountainous environment and their guerrilla warfare tactics allowed them to resist Japanese troops who occupied Taiwan from 1895 to 1945.
Following the Chinese Civil War in 1949, retired Kuomintang (KMT) soldiers were granted land in the Li Shan area as part of a government land reclamation project. Many of these soldiers turned to farming, cultivating fruits like apples, pears, and peaches. Over time, the area became famous for its high-quality produce, and eventually, tea cultivation took root as well. The unique climate of Li Shan allowed for the production of some of the finest oolong teas in the world.
Li Shan’s elevation, ranging from 5,250 to 8,530 feet, contributes to its ideal growing conditions. The cool temperatures, frequent cloud cover, and misty weather create a temperate climate with high humidity—perfect for producing high-quality oolong teas. When I spoke with a local farmer, he emphasized that Li Shan’s distance from the ocean is one of the factors that makes its tea so special. This area, one of the furthest points from the ocean on the island of Taiwan, experiences frequent fog and cloud cover, which protect the tea plants from direct sunlight. This allows the leaves to grow slowly, developing a unique flavor profile that Li Shan teas are known for.