Taiwan’s Old Tea: A Taste of Time and Tradition
Taiwanese tea is renowned for its sweet, smooth, and elegant flavors, a product of the island's unique geography and deeply rooted tea-making traditions. Yet, there’s a hidden gem in the world of Taiwanese tea that often goes unnoticed: aged tea. Frequently misunderstood or dismissed as unsellable “out-of-season tea,” aged tea carries its own story, steeped in history, culture, and the passage of time.
At J-Tea, we’ve always believed that tea is more than just a drink—it’s an experience. Aged tea exemplifies this perfectly, offering a connection to the past and an opportunity to reflect on the beauty of tea’s evolution over time.
The Story of Taiwanese Aged Tea
Taiwan has a long history of tea cultivation, but the practice of aging tea is relatively recent. Before 2007, aged tea was appreciated only by a niche group of collectors and connoisseurs. Most people preferred fresh, seasonal teas, while older teas were often seen as undesirable remnants.
But something extraordinary happened. Over time, aged tea began gaining recognition for its deep, complex flavors and its ability to preserve the essence of a bygone era. Much like fine wine, tea develops character as it ages. The growing interest in aged oolong during this period coincided with the explosive rise of the puer tea market, which saw prices increase tenfold. As a result, many tea enthusiasts turned to aged oolong as a more accessible alternative, and its unique qualities began to shine.
Types of Aged Taiwanese Tea
Export Tea: The Northern Legacy
During the mid-20th century, Taiwan focused heavily on tea exports to bolster its economy. Most of this tea came from low-altitude regions in northern Taiwan, such as Taoyuan and Hsinchu. These teas, often green or black, were mass-produced and sold at low prices. By the 1970s, competition from cheaper tea-producing countries pushed Taiwanese tea out of international markets, leaving behind unsold stock. This gave rise to the saying, “Aged tea is just tea that wouldn’t sell.” While there’s some truth to this, it’s only part of the story.
As tea aged in storage, its character transformed. Some teas that didn’t sell fast enough matured into rare gems. In the 2000s, savvy tea hunters—my friends among them—would scour warehouses and tea shops, explicitly asking, “Do you have any old tea sitting around?” These forgotten teas, sometimes stored for decades, were often sold for a fraction of their worth because their value was unrecognized. This leftover stock, now over 50 years old, is known as “Northern Tea” or “Bei Zai Tea.” While not every batch was high quality, treasures like Muzha Tieguanyin and Oriental Beauty have become highly sought after for their exceptional aging.
The Rise of High Mountain Oolong
In the 1970s, Taiwan shifted its focus from exports to domestic markets, heralding the high mountain tea era. Regions like Alishan and Lishan began producing exceptional oolongs, celebrated for their floral fragrance, sweetness, and smooth finish.
Over time, some of these high mountain teas were stored, either intentionally or out of necessity, allowing them to age gracefully. These aged teas now stand as testaments to both their origins and the decades they’ve lived through.
The Art of Roasting and Aging
Roasting plays a vital role in the evolution of Taiwanese aged tea. Traditionally, older teas were re-roasted periodically to remove stale or musty flavors. This practice persisted until the early 2000s when unroasted aged tea began to gain appreciation for its natural, unaltered transformation over time.
Unroasted aged teas are rare, as most were roasted either to extend their shelf life or to cater to market preferences. Yet, both roasted and unroasted aged teas have their own unique appeal. The key is understanding their differences and finding one that resonates with your palate.
What Makes Aged Tea Special?
Aged tea is more than just flavor—it’s an experience. Drinking a well-preserved aged tea is like stepping into the past. Its mellow character, intricate aromas, and smooth texture invite reflection and offer a meditative experience that fresh teas cannot replicate.
Confucian virtues—gentleness, kindness, modesty, courtesy, and patience—are often used to describe aged tea. It waits quietly for its moment to shine, revealing its depth and wisdom only to those who take the time to appreciate it.
A New Appreciation for Old Tea
In recent years, aged tea has finally claimed its place in the spotlight. Collectors, tea enthusiasts, and even casual drinkers are recognizing its value. Whether it’s a forgotten batch of Northern Tea or a carefully aged high mountain oolong, these teas offer a glimpse into the past and a taste of tradition.
At J-Tea, we’re proud to share these hidden treasures with you. Aged tea reminds us that, much like tea itself, life is about patience, growth, and savoring the moments that define us.